Maintaining saltwater spas: the complete guide (with example of the Intex Chevron Deluxe)
A saltwater spa is wonderfully relaxing and a lot easier to maintain than many people think. Nevertheless, at Pool.shop we get questions about the right approach almost every day: Should chlorine be put in or not? Why do my walls feel slippery? How do I lower the pH? In this guide, we explain step by step how to maintain a saltwater spa, how often to do what, and what products you need to do so. We use the Intex PureSpa Chevron Deluxe As an example, but the principles apply to almost any inflatable saltwater spa.
One misunderstanding beforehand: "Saltwater" does not mean "no chlorine." Your spa makes its own chlorine from the salt. You can read how that works below.
How does a saltwater spa actually work?
With a saltwater system (also known as salt electrolysis), there is simply salt in the water. A component in the pump unit - the electrolytic cell - sends a small current through that salt water and converts the sodium chloride (salt) into chlorine. That chlorine disinfects your water and then disintegrates back into salt, and the cycle begins again.
The big advantage: you don't have to constantly dose chlorine tablets, the water feels softer and smells less acrid. But - and this is important - there is indeed chlorine in your water. It's just created by your spa itself instead of being added by hand.
For proper operation, the system needs the right level of salt: between 2 and 3 g/L (2000-3000 ppm), with 2.5 g/L (2500 ppm) being ideal. Too little salt and your spa makes too little chlorine; too much salt corrodes metal components and produces error code E92 (too high) or E91 (too low) on the display.
I have a saltwater spa, so only salt and no chlorine tablets ... is that right?"
This is by far the most frequently asked question, so we'll answer it directly. Largely true: you add salt and the salt system continuously produces chlorine. So you don't have to put chlorine tablets in a floater like you would in a traditional pool. But in these two situations, you still manually dose chlorine:
- After changing the water or during intensive use with many bathers. The cell may not be able to make chlorine quickly enough. A shock treatment (see below) quickly brings the water back up to standard.
- If your test strip indicates too little free chlorine (target value 2-4 ppm). Then either increase the running hours of the salt system or give a manual dose of chlorine granules.
Summary: Salt is your daily engine, but a jar of chlorine granules for spas belongs in every spa closet as a backstop.
Step 1 - Test your water (weekly)
Maintenance always starts with measuring. Without testing, you won't know what your water needs. Use test strips and test at least once a week (more often with heavy use, daily if necessary). With a good strip you will measure the most important values in one go. Dip the whole strip into the water for a moment, take it out immediately, hold it horizontally for 15 seconds (don't shake it) and compare the colors to the package. The target values for your spa are:
| Value | Target range |
|---|---|
| Free chlorine | 2 - 4 ppm |
| pH | 6,8 – 7,6 |
| Total alkalinity (TA) | 60 - 120 ppm |
| Calcium hardness | 150 - 250 ppm |
| Salinity | 2000 - 3000 ppm (ideal 2500) |
👉 Order your AquaChek test strips (4-in-1) or the special test strips for saltwater here.
Step 2 - Maintain salinity levels
When first filling, spread the salt evenly over the bottom (guideline: 2 kg for the 4-person model, 2.5 kg for the 6-person model). Turn on the bubble/circulation function, brush the bottom so the salt doesn't build up, and let it dissolve completely for about an hour before turning on the salt system. After that, you only need to adjust:
- Code E91 (too low): add 0.5 kg of salt each time until the message disappears.
- Code E92 (too high): drain about 25% of the water and refill with fresh water until the message goes away.
Always use pure pool salt (sodium chloride according to EN16401). No bath salts, no "non-chloride ion salts".
Step 3 - Increase or decrease pH
The pH indicates how acidic or alkaline your water is. The correct range is 6.8 - 7.6. If you're above or below that, your chlorine won't work as well and you're more likely to get scale, cloudy water or skin and eye irritation. Important sequence: always adjust total alkalinity (TA) first, then pH. TA acts as a buffer; if it's not right, your pH will keep shooting off in all directions.
- pH too high (> 7.6)? Add pH-minus to lower.
- pH too low (< 6.8)? Add pH-plus to increase.
- TA too high (> 120 ppm)? Use a TA reducer (often the same as pH-minus).
- TA too low (< 60 ppm)? Use a TA booster.
Always add chemistry to water with circulation on, never while people are in the spa. Re-test after 24 hours and make further adjustments if necessary.
Step 4 - Increase or decrease chlorine levels
Target value is 2-4 ppm free chlorine.
Chlorine too low?
- Increase the running hours of the salt system (adjustable to 3, 5 or 8 hours per day - for first time and low values set it to 8 hours).
- Or give a manual dose of chlorine granules.
Chlorine too high?
- Reduce salt system running hours.
- Let the spa "air out" for a while with the cover removed; chlorine breaks down on its own.
Note: High pH makes your chlorine less effective. Above pH 7.5, less than half of your chlorine is still active. So always address your pH first if your chlorine "doesn't seem to be working."
Step 5 - Shock treatment when changing water
Yes, a shock is recommended - especially after changing the water and after intensive use. A shock treatment gives your water a short, powerful blast of chlorine that breaks down built-up organic residue (sweat, skin grease, cosmetics) that your salt system won't keep up with.
Do this every water change, and in between when your water gets cloudy or starts to smell. Then turn the salt system back on for daily maintenance.
Step 6 - Clean the filter (weekly)
The filter captures all fine debris and is crucial for clear water. Check and clean the filter cartridge once a week:
- Press the lever, pull off the cartridge housing and remove the filter.
- Rinse the filter well with the garden hose.
- If the filter remains discolored or dirty, it's time for a new one.
Always keep spare filters in stock - a clean filter saves energy and keeps your water clear.
👉 For the Intex PureSpa: Intex Pure spa filter S1 (set of 6) or the advantage set of 12.
Step 7 - Clean the electrolytic cell (every 1-2 weeks)
In areas with hard water (lots of lime), deposits form on the titanium plate of the cell. As a result, your spa produces less chlorine. The cell has a self-cleaning function, but in hard water, you must occasionally step in:
- Water hardness < 100 ppm: check cell every two weeks.
- Water hardness > 350 ppm: check weekly.
Cleaning is done this way: turn off and unplug the spa, seal the inlet and outlet with the caps provided, disassemble the cell and place the titanium plate in ordinary cleaning vinegar for at least an hour until the tarnish is gone. Then rinse with tap water (keep the cell plug dry!) and reassemble everything.
Step 8 - Change the water (every 2-3 months)
No matter how well you dose, at some point the water becomes "saturated" with dissolved substances. Therefore, change the entire water every 2-3 months, or sooner if it becomes cloudy and cannot be cleared with chemistry.
When emptying: turn off the spa, connect a garden hose to the drain adapter and drain the water to a suitable spot. Immediately take the opportunity to clean the empty tub with a soft sponge and mild detergent, and rinse well before refilling. After changing: add salt, set values and give shock treatment.
Step 9 - Cover and surroundings
The cover keeps heat in and dirt out. Clean it regularly inside and out with a sponge and an appropriate disinfectant solution. Inspect it for wear or damage - a damaged tarp insulates poorly and is unsafe (especially with children around). A well-sealed tarp also saves a great deal on your energy consumption.
Keep the area around the spa clean, too. Always rinse dirt and cleaning water away from the spa so no dirt or detergent gets into the water.
Step 10 - Winterization and storage
In areas where it can freeze, store the spa as soon as the temperature drops toward 4°C. Short roadmap:
- Empty and clean the spa completely.
- Blow residual water out of the pipes with the hose provided.
- Allow all parts to dry outdoors for at least an hour (drying only with a cloth is not enough and can damage the tub).
- Fold the tub loosely, without sharp creases.
- Store everything dry between 0 and 40 °C, preferably in the original packaging.
- Make sure you have plenty of clean filters in stock for the next season.
Maintenance schedule at a glance
| How often | What |
|---|---|
| Daily / after each use | Replace cover, charge control panel, briefly shower before use |
| Weekly | Test water with test strips, clean filter, adjust pH/chlorine. |
| Every 1-2 weeks | Check electrolytic cell and descale (more often in hard water) |
| Monthly | Treat pipes against biofilm, clean the cover thoroughly. |
| Every 2-3 months | Complete water change + shock treatment |
| In case of frost / winter | Empty, dry and store the spa indoors |
The spa maintenance cabinet: this is what you need in the house
With these basics, you'll be prepared for the whole season:
- Salt - W'eau pool salt 20 kg
- Test strips - AquaChek 4-in-1
- Chlorine granulate (back up & shock) - AquaFinesse chlorine granulate
- Biofilm & pipe cleaner - AquaFinesse Spa & Hot tub set
- Spare filters - Intex Pure spa filter S1
- Protective cover - Intex insulating protective cover
Still looking for the spa itself? Check out the Intex PureSpa Chevron Deluxe (4-person) or the 6-person version.
Finally
Maintaining a saltwater spa is mostly a matter of routine: test weekly, keep filter clean, descale on time and change the water every few months. Remember that "saltwater" doesn't mean "chlorine-free" - your spa makes the chlorine itself, and with a jar of chlorine granules and a biofilm cleaner on hand, you'll effortlessly keep out slippery walls and foam.
Unsure about a value or a product for your specific situation? The specialists at Pool.shop will be happy to think with you.
Always consult the official Intex manual for your specific model and follow the manufacturer's instructions for each chemical product.
